31 January 2010

"And I lost my heart to a Galway girl "

Ok, so I didn't really lose my heart to a Galway girl, but I did really love the city. And the title is a line from the famous Irish song, "The Galway Girl." You can't go to a pub in Ireland without hearing it at least once throughout the course of the night.

So, I'm back from my first backpacking adventure. Ok, so I didn't hitchhike or anything, but it was just me, my backpack, and whatever I could find in Galway.

My trip started yesterday at 7 am. I got up, got ready for my weekend. I packed a backpack with a pair of sweatpants, a tshirt, deodorant, hair wax, a toothbrush, and old spice spray. That way if I lost my backpack for whatever reason, everything was easily replaceable. So I called a taxi on Friday night to pick me up at 7:45, and I met this really nice cab driver. He was an Indian guy, we talked the entire 10 minute ride down to the bus station. He told me his family is living in New York City, and he can't wait to visit them next summer. He told me anytime I needed a taxi driver to let him know. He was a really nice guy.

So I got to the bus station and bought my ticket from Limerick to Galway. I bought a round trip ticket, which only cost about 17 Euros. The ticket is good for a month. So if I wanted to stay in Galway until the end of February, I could have, and then just hopped on a bus with the same ticket. The bus system here isn't such a pain in the ass like it is back home. A bus leaves every hour from basically every major bus station. You don't have to buy in advance, you don't have to have a tag on your bags, you don't have a predetermined bus. It's great. There's no rush or panic of missing a bus. The worst that could happen is you wanted to get on the 5:05 bus and missed it, so you have to wait until 6:05. That's it.

While I was at the bus station I ran into Meghan from CT, and Erin from Zona. They asked me what I was doing and I told them that I was going to Galway. They asked if I was going with anyone and I said no. They couldn't believe I was just going by myself. They immediately told me that I could tag around with them if I wanted to, so I wouldn't be so lonely or bored. So I said sure. There were 9 girls in the group. There was Meghan and Erin, and then there was Kia from NC, Stephanie from Rhode Island, Jenn from Illinois, Carly from New York, Ashley from Minnesota, Lindsey from Minnesota and Brittney from Utah I believe. So I grabbed a danish and a hot chocolate and boarded the bus at 8:25 for Galway.

The ride was great. We got seats to ourselves, the country side was beautiful, and I got to sleep. So we rolled into Galway around 10:30ish. We immediately stopped at this hostel that was right next to the bus station. The Galway Hostel. Inside we met some guy who really didn't know what he was doing, so we decided to look elsewhere. We walked toward town, through Eyre Square. Eyre Square is the big gathering center of the city. There was nothing special about it. I don't think I got a picture. It literally looked exactly like the little park outside my apartment in DC. Very small. So we walked into town not really sure where we were going. We ended up at Shop Street. The famous Shop Street. Galway is known for this street alone. It's of course...lined with shops. But not only shops, they have pubs, and and a market place and live music going on. It's great.

So we ventured down shop street. The girls insisted that we stop in an engagement ring store, and then proceeded to pressure me into buying one for Emily. Haha, I was like nah, I can't really spend 3,500 Euros when I only have about 2,000. I don't think so. Not now at least! So, we continued down the street and ducked down this alleyway. We came upon the Collegiate Church of St. Nicholas. It was built in 1320, and it was believed that Columbus had prayed there before heading to the New World. It was very pretty. It sits just behind the street, and peeks out over the roofs of the shops. As we continued down the alley we just walked along rows of vendors selling meats, grains, bread, baked goods, vegetables and art works. It was basically like any other outdoor farmers market you've ever been too.

We continued down the street. It was very beautiful. Different colors for nearly every business. Beautiful pub fronts and architecture. It was awesome. The street itself starts off straight, and then bears left. Once you take the left you hit a fork. You can go about a block more to the right and then the shops end, or you can go left and continue for another 2 to 3 blocks before you hit the River Corrib. We walked down to the right but there wasn't much down there. So we ventured down to the left and came across Thomas Dillon's, the original maker of the Claddagh Ring. So of course all the girls went in to pick out rings. I think almost every single girl got a Claddagh ring. Why not? It's the original makers of it! Galway is the home of the Claddagh ring. So the girls all picked out which one they wanted and the owners made the rings right in front of them. Some girls had to wait for sizing, but they just stopped back a couple hours later and they were finished. It was a neat little shop.

So after our venture into the ring shop we decided to look for somewhere to stay. I was originally planning on crashing on the floor of my friends on the trip, but I didn't know what was going on so I just decided to get a room. We went directly across the street to some little hostel, but it was full. So we got the woman who was working at the reception to call the first hostel we visited on our way in, and reserve our rooms for us until we walked back there. So we all walked back over and booked a hostel for the night. The guy was probably a huge stoner, he didn't seem like he knew what he was doing. I ended up purchasing a room for 13 Euros. Oh, and we got free breakfast. Woohoo! So 6 of us stayed in a 14 person room and 4 of the girls stayed in a 4 person room 2 floors up. It was an experience. We got into our room and it looked like something from Michael Jackson's Neverland Ranch. (Too soon?) The walls are all purple. There's a single black and white picture of flowers on the wall? There are 7 bunk beds throughout the room, with red frames. It was hilarious. I got to sleep top bunk closest to the window. There was no one in the room when we got there, so I wasn't quite sure how the situation would get once it was time to go to bed, but it didn't seem to sketchy so we locked up our book bags and went back to explore.

For lunch we at this restaurant called "The Quays." It was awesome. It was this cool, small, yellow building that was built in the 1600's. Once you got inside it got even better. There was beautiful stone and wood work all over the place. There was also these awesome stain glass windows that overlooked the bar floor. Apparently, the inside was once a medieval French church, and once the church was abandoned, they restored the outside and left the inside as it was. It was in this restaurant that I finally had Irish stew. Holy crap it was amazing. For 10 Euros you got a huge, hot bowl of Irish stew, steaming cabbage, mashed potatoes, a cooked potato and assorted vegetables. It was amazing. It was the first time that I felt like, "Holy crap, I'm in Ireland."

Once we left, we headed toward the River Corrib. Here we just stopped to look out over the Bay of Galway. We also got to see "The Spanish Arch," which is a Galway must see. It is just a big stone arch that sits right along the river. It was built in 1584 to protect ships from looting. It got the name from the Spanish galleons that used to dock under it for protection. Then we proceeded over the bridge and walked to the bay. On our way we got to see the famous Galway swans that make their home at the Galway pier. I've heard that there are tons of swans near the bay and I wasn't disappointed. There were tons. It was a very pretty site. Then we walked down the coastline of the Bay and just took pictures. It was awesome. It was right where the bay meets the Atlantic ocean. It was quite a site.

After wandering out to the bay, we went back into town and decided to find a bakery to get something sweet. Me and Jenn decided to go halves on some kind of chocolate mousse cake thing. I don't know what it was, but it was amazing. There was about a half an inch of coco on the top of it. Which I didn't realize, and then choked as I inhaled on my first bite. We all grabbed something sweet and then decided that in grabbing a quick bite, it actually made us even more hungry. So we went in search of a restaurant. We tried to stop in at Tis Coli, this cool looking pub right at the fork, but it was packed. We went in, pushed our way to the bar, and then couldn't get at it. So we pushed all the way back out and left. We decided to head just across the street to the King's Head Pub. It was a pretty cool place. We walked in and couldn't find anyplace downstairs, so we went upstairs to sit. We didn't realize that you have to go downstairs and order everything yourself. The ONE waitress working didn't come around and grab orders. So we individually had to go downstairs and order our beers. I had a "Smithwicks" as usual, but was told that in Ireland you don't pronounce the "w". It's pronounced, "Smitticks." So after botching the local language, we just sat upstairs, drank our pints and watched the Chelsea FC game on ESPN Europe. As we drank we got even hungrier and decided to order food, which we again had to do individually. So we sent two girls down, and then two more, etc. I was in the 3rd wave to go down. As I got down there and paid, one of the cooks or a server came out and told us there was no more of basically anything on the menu. So we asked if we could buy McDonalds and bring it in. They said sure, that's not a problem. So we went back upstairs and told all the girls the game plan. Then the waitress came up and told us no, we can't do the McDonalds thing. So, we decided to send groups of girls in waves to McDonalds, which was just down the street. We sat there drinking our pints and talking as the first wave left. About 20 minutes later when they returned, the waitress came up and told us the exact table we were sitting at was reserved for the night, and that we basically had to leave. We then had another server come up 5 minutes later who told us that we had to leave now. I just don't think they liked Americans. I was starving, and so were the other girls, so we went to McDonalds. I didn't even care. My friend and long time boss Matt Helf told me not to eat any fast food when in Europe. Sorry Matt, I had to! It was the cheapest thing, and it was the only thing. Places stop serving food at like 6 in Ireland. Then it's just drinking all night long. If you want to eat, you better get there on time. So I consumed a Big Mac and fries in Ireland. I didn't care. We walked the entire day.

After our McDonalds excursion, we headed back to Quay's for a pint or two. We didn't stay very long. There were a bunch of creepy Irish dudes hitting on the girls. And by creepy I mean, they were trying to make out with each other and then get the girls to do the same. It was awkward. So we left and decided to head back to a bar called, "Coyotes." It was advertised as an American bar, and it sat right next to our hostel. We walk into this place, and it is tacky as hell. It's themed like Coyote Ugly. Literally, there is a huge wall with the characters of the movie staring at you. There are American flags everywhere, an mechanical bull downstairs, pictures of John Wayne, James Dean, Obama. It was just the tackiest thing. There was also all this Texas stuff all over the place. It was as if they were like, "Ok, when I think of America what do I think of. Texas." There were steer horns on the walls, "Don't Mess with Texas" signs, a skeletal bull skull. It was cheesy. So we went to the bar to do a shot, and the Irish guy sitting at the bar asked us if we liked Johnny Cash. We all said sure, and he started singing Johnny Cash. Apparently Irish people love Johnny Cash. In fact, the live band that started playing right after we got there played Johnny Cash. There's nothing like two Irish dudes with guitars trying to sing "Ring of Fire." We also got to listen to them botch "Summer of '69," "Brown Eyed Girl," "Sweet Home Alabama," "Way Down Sally," and "Evil Woman." Haha, it was hilarious. We stayed there for an hour or two and watched the crowds pour in. It was a bar for either 40+ or 18 year olds. It was such a weird demographic. Right before we left though, the band played "Galway Girl," which was really cool to hear the song actually being played in the city the song is based on. And then Jenn and Erin rode the mechanical bull. Good times.

Then we headed back to our hostel where we met two of our roommates. They were two girls who were studying abroad in Israel, but are currently on their winter break. The one was from Winnipeg and the other from California. They were both very nice. We talked to them for an hour or so about their journey and school in Israel. They said Israel gets a bad wrap, and it's a lot nicer than the media portrays it to be. They said not once since they've been there have they ever felt in danger. So that was cool to hear. I also had to ask the girl from Winnipeg if she was a Manitoba Moose fan, since they are based out of Winnipeg. She laughed and asked me how I knew that. I told her I was a Hershey Bears fan. She busted out laughing. She told me how the city was devastated after the loss, but they are still holding out hope that they are gonna get the Jets back from Phoenix. After our conversation they went to bed, and the girls I was with and I started talking about random shit. We couldn't fall asleep because there was a pub literally attached to our hostel. That pub also had a DJ there last night. So I had to listen to Lady Gaga for an hour until the place closed. It was terrible.

We woke up this morning at 8:30 to get ready for the day. I actually slept pretty comfortably after the music stopped. The hostel was actually warm, unlike my room here at school. I put on the same outfit I wore yesterday, rubbed on some deodorant, brushed my teeth and was good to go for day 2. Our hostel had breakfast, so I decided to walk over to the kitchen to get some. However, I was surprisingly greeted to Bob Marley music as I walked out into the hallway. It played all morning. I got to eat toast, in a hostel in Galway, listening to "Buffalo Soldier" and "No Woman, No Cry." It was an experience.

After our awesome Rastafarian breakfast that we shared with some Italians, Germans, and a Swede we set off for a tour bus. We had decided that we would take a bus tour that cost 10 Euros, stopped at the Cliffs of Moher and some other places, and then had us back by 5 pm. However, as soon as we left our hostel some shady dude approached us with brochures to another tour. He was really sketch. We didn't really want to hear anything he had to say at first, but then he started talking about the tour and it sounded pretty interesting. He told us the tour was 20 Euros. We all said, screw that. Jenn told him we found one for 10, and if he didn't bargain, we wouldn't consider his. So we worked him down to 10 Euros a piece. So we decided to take his tour. He walked us to the bus station around the corner and the entire time everyone was talking about whether or not this was a shady tour or a legit one. We saw the bus, and it was legit. We saw the driver, and he was legit too. So we decided to take the tour. But, not until Jenn somehow worked the price down to 8 Euros a person. It was amazing. A tour originally priced at 20 Euros, and we got it for 8!

The tour was amazing!

We drove out into the countryside of Galway, heading toward the Burren and the coastline. It wasn't until today that I actually felt like I was in Ireland. The scenery was amazing. I can't even describe it. It was everything you picture when you think of Ireland. Thatched roofed homes, big brown cows roaming literally everywhere, stone fences all over the place, castle ruins here and there. It was amazing.

After accidentally driving us right into the middle of a cycle race, our first stop on the tour was at this little house on the Burren. The Burren is a region of Ireland that sits along the coast. It's known for it's rocky limestone scenery. Me and a few of the girls decided to take the walking tour offered. The tour guide lived in this little house that sat just at the base of this mountain, and apparently his family owned all the land up the mountain. So, we got to walk on the Burren, up the mountain. It was gorgeous. You could see everything. It was green as far as the eye could see. Castles, little villages, churches. It was truly breathtaking. I can't even describe it. It's just something you have to see for yourself. The weather was perfect too. It was mid 40's, clear sunny day, one brief spitting rain cloud but that was it. It was unbelievable.

After the tour we went back into the guys house and warmed up for a bit. Down a long hallway that leads to the bathroom there are signatures and messages all over the walls. He leaves permanent markers in the hallway so people that take the tour can write messages to him. The walls were blanketed with red, blue and black writings. It was really cool.

We hopped back on the bus and then headed to the Cliffs of Moher. Along the way we stopped to take pictures of the famous Corkscrew Hill. It's exactly what it sounds like. A road that just weaves horizontally up a mountain. It was pretty scary, but the view from the road was awesome. We stopped there for 10 minutes and then got back on. We then proceeded through the amazing countryside to the cliffs of Moher. It was a really cool tour. The guy would spit out facts here and there, and when he wasn't talking, traditional Irish music played over the speakers. There's nothing like driving through the Irish countryside listening to a fiddle and some Gaelic singing.

After another half hour of driving, we reached the Cliffs of Moher. Apparently a couple people die each year from getting too close to the edge to take a photo. As recent as a couple of months ago a Hungarian guy slipped while taking a picture and fell to his death. But they have a couple feet of grass separating the cliffs from the walkway, and the walkway is walled in, so you have to climb up over the wall to even get close to the edge. Just follow the rules. Anyway, the Cliffs of Moher....the most amazing thing I've ever seen. It's just such a powerful site. You don't realize it until you actually see it in person. I can't even describe it. Once your there, you just know that what you are looking at is this amazing act from God. It's just a powerful place. That's all I can really say about it.

After our stop at the cliffs, we stopped at Fitzgerald's pub right along the coastline. I got yet another amazing meal. Unlike in the states, the Irish people don't try to jip you when it comes to food. They give you more than your money's worth. For 10 Euros I got 3 huge slices of hot Turkey, 3 or 4 decent sized scalloped potato's, carrots and squash and a big helping of steamed cabbage. It was incredible. Nothing like a good hot plate of Irish food to start the afternoon.

We left the pub and then headed back down the coastline toward Galway. Along the way we stopped at the coastline part of the Barren. You'd recognize the rocky cliffs and ground if you saw them. We had another 30 minutes to walk around and take pictures. It was so gorgeous. You could get right up to the edge of the cliffs here. Which I did. Of course I got vertigo, but it was such an awesome view. You could see all the way out to the Cliffs of Moher, the Atlantic ocean stretched for miles in front of us, and the Aran Islands seemed like they were only a stones throw away. Once we hopped back on the bus, we drove another 45 minutes and made our final pit stop at the Doolin Castle. We got to walk right up to it. It was great. The surrounding area was magnificent. It just felt like Ireland. It was the prime example of what Ireland is supposed to look like.

After we returned we waited for just about 15 minutes and then caught the 6:05 bus back to Limerick. It was the bus ride from hell. A two our journey turned into nearly a 4 hour journey because of an accident. The roads are so tiny that it's hard to clear a lane after an accident. So essentially they just kept letting each side take turns. We waited for about an hour and a half in stand still traffic.

This weekend was a great experience. I definitely want to go back to Galway again before I leave. I'm excited to take my friends and Emily there to show them all that Ireland has to offer.

Before this weekend I really didn't feel connected to Ireland. I didn't really know what to expect. Would it be green? Would it be as amazing as people say it is? Would I fall in love with Ireland?

Yes, yes, and yes.

Ireland did not dissapoint.

I can't wait to see more!

2 comments:

  1. Holy cow. How have you already had time to write all of this?! You dedicated blogger, you.
    -Kia

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  2. B-E-A-R-S bears! bears! bears! That's awesome Matt, I hope I can fit Ireland in this summer.

    ReplyDelete